Adding on Atelje

I'm a little confused as to why none of the 'majors' (Style, Vogue etc...) have covered Ann Sofie Back's 10 anniversary label show considering there's an extra word at the end of the label 'Atelje' which defiantly marks this collection out from the others.  'Atelje' meaning Atelier in Swedish is I guess a way of further distinguishing between her mainline and her Back diffusion line as well as denoting a mode of higher production values which were evidently on display at the presentation.  From last season's tufted chiffon coach sandals, bleached out denim and ripped tweed, this was a decidedly slicker affair. 

More significantly though, this was a new palette for Ann Sofie Back's mainline.  A blank slate that I thought effectively communicated her ideas better than any other collection I've seen.  Her past commentary on social phenomena that she herself says she doesn't understand such as celebrity culture, reality TV etc have often resulted in collections that cause a bit of a roar but how often did you see the pieces actually filtrating down to stores, save for that 'Boo' collection that was a commercial hit (more chewing gum sweaters please beats headphones on sale!).  This time round coach online outlet store, she was commenting on porn, or rather our acceptance of porn imagery in everyday life.  This was the underlying influence that played out in ways that were far more subtle than the description on the show notes suggested, aided by some clever collaborations.  The twelve look intimate salon show opened with a wet-look dress where the fabric isn't actually wet but created specially with the Dutch textile designer Baert Hess.  It was a punctuating start that made a point and looked incredibly beautiful - wet look without it being wet - someone needs to make an infomercial surely.  This tract continued with weighted jewellery created by Helene Carlson that made suggestions of sex toys or something phallic were delicately placed as weights on the backs of dresses, as earrings or necklaces.  Back also collaborated with architect Julian Hakes on the shoes, hat and sunglasses added smoked plexiglass structures that floated on top of the head as well as the beautiful sandals which were like porcelain feet shackles (meant in the best way possible...).  The actual demure spirit of the clothes were like a cover-up to the little touches that hinted at tension... a plexiglass bra, a plexi pole securing a skirt or running through some folds at the hips or a metal ring encircling a hole in the back or clasping the knee... blink and you might have missed these deets, which if they were omitted would have prevented the clothes from making a point as well as adding a beautiful interest to the overall aesthetic.  It felt  like those plexi glass rods or metal rings were exactly in the right position, not a cm out of place.  It might have been negative commentary on our numbing to porn but the results definitely got some good out of this world ridden with dildos, cock rings and nipples all out.     

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