- “Carlos Miele referenced everything from butterflies to Pink Floyd to the concept of freedom for his spring collection — which was as varied as it sounds.” (Daily Front Row)
- “Mr. Miele had the right approach with his ethereal lightness.” (International Herald Tribune)
- “If you’re a woman who wants to look and feel sexy without subscribing to any one trend, Carlos is your guy.” (Style.com)
- “This collection keeps him firmly in the glam camp.” (StyleList)
- “A cultural mash-up that didn’t exactly jibe with the designer’s distinctly Latin take on glamour.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
- “Chilean-born Maria Cornejo went back to her roots for her spring/summer 2011 collection and mixed her South American heritage with urban chic.” (Associated Press)
- “Zero + Maria Cornejo is a collection for the intellectual woman, who is worldly, urbane and has seen enough traditional silhouettes to last her a lifetime.” (Heard on the Runway)
- “An effective show that explored … cultural displacement.” (The New York Times)
- “Continental chic with an Asian simplicity and a London girl’s irreverence.” (Style.com)
- “The marriage of some terrific tribal prints with her draped jodhpurs and jumpsuits, harem-type pants and off-kilter draped sheaths was perfect.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
- “Since leaving his job as creative director of the French fashion house Nina Ricci in early 2009, the world hasn’t heard much from Olivier Theyskens. But on Monday, there he was, in all his black-and-gray glory.” (Heard on the Runway)
- “The Theyskens’ Theory collection … has the same elements of romance and originality that he developed earlier. But this time the look — and especially the price — is right.” (International Herald Tribune)
- “The clothes, under the label Theyskens’ Theory, are remarkable because they reflect Mr. Theyskens’s signature drainpipe style, but also look like Theory’s urban wardrobe.” (On The Runway)
- “The look? Belgian, with lots of sharp, imaginative tailoring.” (Style.com)
Wayne
Designer: Wayne Lee
Date: Monday, Sept. 13, 441 West 14th Street
Photos: slide show
Diesel Black Gold
Designer: Sophia Kokosalaki
Date and Location: Monday, Sept. 13, Pier 92, West Side Highway at 55th Street
Photos: slide show
- “Bright lights in the dark city.” (All The Rage)
- “So, a lot of designers have disco danced around a 1970s muse at New York Fashion Week with those billowy shapes, scarf-tied tops, gold lamé and long, flared trousers, but Marc Jacobs … is the only one who fully asked her to dance.” (Associated Press)
- “It wasn’t the Marc show we’ve come to expect … the first surprise was … a Lagerfeld-like set, metallic and imposing, spherical, not entirely unlike the ones he uses regularly at Chanel Couture.” (Daily Front Row)
- “With the ’70s as inspiration — done the New York way — Jacobs borrowed from Missoni’s iconic zigzag prints” (ELLEuk.com)
- “He grabs others’ signatures and makes them his own.” (Fashionista)
- “A collection that was less about dressing and more about dressing up.” (Grazia Daily)
- “There was the drama of it — in the patterns that included vintage-Missoni-esque stripes and zigzags.” (Heard on the Runway)
- “Clothes that glistened like they were from Studio 54.” (Huffington Post)
- “Does it matter that Mr. Jacobs should put a spin on existing ideas, when the results were so mouthwateringly colorful and ravishingly pretty? After all, with sampling now part of music history, film hommages accepted in modern movies and books containing chunks of text found on the Internet, what’s wrong with creating a ‘best of’ collection?” (International Herald Tribune)
- “This wasn’t Mr. Jacobs’s most moving collection, but it had a finessing glamour and was a natural follow to last season’s elegant show and longer lengths.” (On The Runway)
- “There was a satin interlude, an ode to Missoni’s zigzag knits and voluminous peasant dresses with a Rive Gauche air. The … wide-brimmed straw hats were straight out of ‘Taxi Driver.’ And yet Jacobs was mostly in control of his potentially lurid subject matter.” (Style.com)
- “An army of disco divas.” (StyleList)
- “A delirious ode to ’70s glamour.” (Vogue.com)
- “The designer treated his audience to a beautiful blast from the past.” (Vogue.com UK)
- “The boldly turned out ghosts of those good old days made a gleeful return at Marc Jacobs’s show.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Did Marc miss the mark?! As Scorecard can tell you, on the fifth day of shows critics weren’t totally buying Mr. Jacobs’s if-my-disco-heaven-looks-like-YSL-Rive Gauche-through-a-Missoni-blender, it’s-all-just-a-grand-Pomo-game thing. The former Nina Ricci and Rochas designer Olivier Theyskens, meanwhile, brought romance down from the lofty heights of couture — that’s a Theory they could fully support.
- “Wayne Lee took her spring collection in a markedly different — and exciting — new direction that looked like the work of a designer who is finding her voice.” (On The Runway)
- “The look was sporty and slicked to the body, the kind of thing that no-fuss urban girls will want.” (Style.com)
- “With references as diverse as ‘Blade Runner’ and the Venus’ flytrap, one may wonder what to expect at the Wayne show. Fortunately those in attendance were in for a pleasant surprise.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
- “There was nothing ditzy, dated or dowdy about florals given Carolina Herrera’s tasteful treatment.” (Associated Press)
- “Quite why one would, for instance, perch a huge peasant’s straw hat, ideal for planting seed in a rice paddy, on top of women dressed to go to lunch or dinner on Park Avenue was hard to fathom.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
- “Ladies clothes for ladies, that’s what Carolina Herrera gave us in her show.” (Heard on the Runway)
- “A show that was striking, if a little too literal in its flower effects.” (International Herald Tribune)
- “Suggested a theme of Alfred Hitchcock Goes to Asia.” (On The Runway)
- “Carolina Herrera’s program notes explained that spring was inspired by two things: the traditional clothes of Korea and botanical plates collected in the 18th century. For anybody who admired the elegant simplicity of her recent resort show, that little bit of news sent up a red flag.” (Style.com)
- “Carolina Herrera runways always resemble elegant cotillion walks, and spring 2011 continues the tradition with pantsuits, botanical graphica and gaucho hats added in.” (The Thread)
- “It all whispered refinement and ease.” (Vogue.com)
- “For all the hits scarpe nike, there were also some misses, many of which chalked up to needless details.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Marc Jacobs
Designer: Marc Jacobs
Date and Location: Monday, Sept. 13, the Armory, 68 Lexington Avenue
Photos: slide show
Halston
Designer: Marios Schwab
Date and Location: Monday, Sept. 13, Gladstone Gallery, 530 West 21st Street
Photos: slide show
- “Marios Schwab’s second collection for Halston referenced its archive with liquid asymmetric dresses, slashed to reveal bare shoulders.” (ELLEuk.com)
- “Marios stayed faithful to the brand, but also allowed himself to put a bit more, well, Marios into the collection too; evident in the sculptural necklines.” (Grazia Daily)
- “The orchid — as a pattern on fabric or as overlapping petals on a skirt hem — gave freshness to the familiar. The designer Marios Schwab is taking the label scarpe nike, identified mostly as the draped dresses from its 1970s heyday, into new territory of cut and color.” (International Herald Tribune)
- “Certainly this collection will fall into the category of what women will want.” (Style.com)
- “Marios Schwab’s sophomore effort hit the expected archive-referencing marks.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Donna Karan
Designer: Donna Karan
Date and Location: Monday, Sept. 13, 711 Greenwich Street
Photos: slide show
Related
Spring 2011 Fashion Week
Carlos Miele
Designer: Carols Miele
Date and Location: Monday, Sept. 13, Lincoln Center, the Stage
Photos: slide show
- “Diesel has struck Black Gold in its sophomore collection designed by Sophia Kokosolaki, which has elevated this collection to the next level.” (Daily Front Row)
- “A strong 1970s California feel.” (The Daily Telegraph)
- “Brought a more feminine focus to a brand that once was fixated on downtown masculinity.” (International Herald Tribune)
- “Kokosalaki’s artisan wears leather and suede cut from the same cloth as the cowboys from the Wild West.” (ELLEuk.com)
- “These are clothes for the urban hipster for whom a laid-back ease is more important than a fashion statement and a seductive whisper is more effective than a spotlight-hogging scream.” (Grazia Daily)
- “Sophia Kokosalaki took things as far away from fast fashion as possible.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
Theyskens’ Theory
Designer: Olivier Theyskens
Date and Location: Monday, Sept. 13, 40 Gansevoort Street
Photos: slide show
Zero + Maria Cornejo
Designer: Maria Cornejo
Date and Location: Monday, Sept. 13, Hosfelt Gallery, 531 West 36th Street
Photos: slide show
Carolina Herrera
Designer: Carolina Herrera
Date and Location: Monday, Sept. 13, Lincoln Center, Theater
Photos: slide show
- “Donna Karan has absolutely nailed the concept of the Earth Mother figure with a Platinum AmEx card.” (The Daily Telegraph)
- “Our lives are wrinkly and imperfect. Fashion usually attempts to bestow some order on us, often painfully so. Ms. Karan is allowing us to move beyond perfect pressing to more important things.” (Heard on the Runway)
- “The effect was otherworldly, as though the designer, once so rooted in the here and now of New York, had wandered off to someplace where nature was in charge.” (International Herald Tribune)
- “This was a collection that took risks in the manner of the great Japanese designers of the 1980s, part Issey Miyake and part Yohji Yamamoto, but still mostly Donna Karan.” (On The Runway)
- “It was refined, with a gentle, organic look and an all-natural palette to match.” (Vogue.com)
- “This season scarpe nike, Karan displaced her woman and dropped her in the middle of the most foreign of environments — the barren desert — to see how she would fend for herself. Turns out, she did just fine.” (Vogue.com UK)
- “Water, wind, rocks — the elements are always on her mind. What’s remarkable is her ability to constantly reimagine them as she did for spring — a true natural beauty.” (Women’s Wear Daily)
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